It is the venue for what is probably the most important inland lake regatta in Europe and a training ground for Swiss offshore skippers such as Alan Roura and Justine Mettraux. Lake Geneva is the best test laboratory, a miniature sea so to speak, writes Swiss sailing journalist and photographer Jean-Guy Python, author of the book "Suisses en mer". It is remarkable that a landlocked mountain country like Switzerland has produced some of the world's most successful sailing talents. Many of them learnt to play with the wind here: on Lac Léman.
"The conditions on Lake Geneva are similar to those at sea. You have to be strong in light breezes and be able to deal with wind changes," writes Python. Wind is a matter of luck, there are treacherous downdrafts and the weather can change quickly. The best training conditions for young sailing talent.
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Every year in June, the crescent-shaped Alpine lake becomes a showcase for Swiss sailing. This is because the Société Nautique de Genève (SNG) has been organising the Bol d'Or here since 1939. Thousands of spectators were once again treated to an impressive sight on the second weekend in June: More than 500 sailing boats, from simple cabin cruisers to high-tech trimarans, gathered on the starting line against the backdrop of Geneva's old town and Mont Blanc to compete in the 86th edition of the traditional regatta. The Bol d'Or du Léman brings together around 2,500 professional and amateur sailors every year. The 66-mile course runs from the western end of the lake near Geneva to the eastern end at Le Bouveret and back again. However, the challenge of the regatta lies not only in the length of the course, but also in the often unpredictable weather conditions, which is why it is also known as the "Lake of a Thousand Winds".
Triumph and weather chaos on Lake Geneva
This year, the regatta ended with a surprising triumph for the Realteam Spirit team skippered by Jérôme Clerc. After 15 hours, 26 minutes and 5 seconds, the crew was the first to cross the finish line, securing overall victory. The boat, which is optimised for light wind conditions, narrowly beat the competition.
Sails of Change 8 with skipper Yann Guichard followed in second place, 4 minutes and 2 seconds behind, while Zen Too under Guy de Picciotto took third place, 12 minutes and 7 seconds behind.
Christian Wahl, the record holder of the race with nine victories, narrowly missed out on the podium with his team, which included this year's event ambassador Justine Mettraux, and finished in fourth place.
After a light wind start, an unexpected change in the weather on Sunday afternoon brought the regatta to a dramatic end. The arrival of a storm front prompted the organisers to bring forward the closing of the finish line. Just 20 minutes before the end, a storm swept across the lake and forced some of the last participants to abandon the race. After 27 hours on the water, the crews had to give up just a few hundred metres from the finish line - a bitter end for the sailors concerned, who had held out for so long. It brought back memories of the 81st edition of the Bol d'Or in 2019, when a violent storm swept across the regatta field. Gusts of 50 knots and more hit the fleet back then.
In addition, hail pelted the decks in extremely limited visibility. Météo Suisse recorded wind peaks of over 60 knots - more than 110 kilometres per hour. As a result, sailors went overboard in a firework display of distress signals, 40 masts broke, 212 crews abandoned the race and several boats sank. However, such apocalyptic conditions are the exception on Lake Geneva. As a rule, sailors tend to have to contend with weak winds here.
Review of the Bol d'Or
Yann Petremand, President of the Organising Committee, drew a positive conclusion from the 86th edition of the Bol d'Or du Léman. He emphasised the return to the roots of the event as a major lake festival and celebration of the best sailors and most beautiful boats on Lake Geneva. Despite the light winds, the regatta was very challenging and exciting for participants and spectators alike. The Société Nautique de Genève was founded in 1872 by wealthy Genevan citizens and foreign aristocrats who wanted to spend the summer here. Today, Switzerland's largest sports club has more than 4,200 members.
Probably the best known of these are the Bertarellis. While billionaire Ernesto Bertarelli built up a multinational sailing company and brought the America's Cup to Switzerland for the first time in 2003, his sister Dona is a true pioneer of women's sailing. In 2010, she won the Bol d'Or with her Ladycat and a majority female crew. Also on board: Justine Mettraux, also from Geneva and known far beyond the industry at the latest since her participation in the Vendée Globe 2025. Growing up in Versoix, Mettraux spent her childhood on the shores of the lake and on her parents' boat. "I learnt to sail on Lake Geneva. This is where my longing for the sea was awakened," the professional sailor told Swiss media.
Lake of the sailors
To this day, she is often drawn to the shores of her childhood. "The lake has a reputation for being quite changeable, the winds often change," enthuses Mettraux. "You have to be reactive and observe what's happening around you. It always touches me and makes me happy when I'm back here." She joins an impressive list of names to whom Swiss sailing owes its popularity among large sections of the population. After the Swiss Alinghi team defeated the New Zealanders in the final of the America's Cup off Auckland in 2003, there was real sailing hype in Switzerland: 40,000 spectators cheered the crew on their return to the harbour in Geneva. Four years later, Bertarelli was able to defend the trophy in Valencia.
This makes the Société the only European club to have won the America's Cup twice. In short: Lake Geneva is a lake of sailors. And it's not just regatta fans who get their money's worth here. In addition to good sailing conditions, the area has everything you could wish for on a cruise: a magnificent backdrop, good infrastructure and towns worth visiting. Some facts: There are 72 kilometres (39 nautical miles) between its westernmost and easternmost points, but only 14 kilometres (7.5 nautical miles) at its widest point. At 582 square kilometres, Lake Geneva is the second largest inland lake and the most water-rich lake in Central Europe. At its deepest point, it is 310 metres deep. But apart from all the superlatives, the crescent-shaped mountain lake is one thing above all: an unbeatable recreational area. The shores are lined with vineyards and Mediterranean-style sandy beaches, and the fantastic mountain panorama with the snow-capped peak of Mont Blanc rises up in the background.
Geneva stands for cosmopolitanism
The elegant Swiss Riviera on the north side of the lake stretches from Lausanne to Montreux and is partly lined with palm trees. The town of Évian is world-famous for its casino, cable car and famous mineral water spring. Geneva, at the south-western tip of the lake, is characterised above all by its cosmopolitanism and has many sights and activities to offer. The city is an international centre of diplomacy and is home to over 100 international organisations. These include the European headquarters of the United Nations (UN), the WHO and the European Organisation for Nuclear Research (CERN). Some areas of the Palais des Nations are open to the public. In front of the UN building on the Place des Nations stands the impressive wooden monument "Broken Chair" - a twelve-metre-high three-legged chair that symbolises the fight against anti-personnel mines.
Geneva exudes the atmosphere of a cosmopolitan and young city on every corner. In the alleyways and cafés of the historic old town - incidentally the largest in Switzerland - you can hear every language in the world. The best view of the city, the lake and the surrounding mountains is from the towering Cathédrale Saint-Pierre. If you climb the 157 steps to the top of the church tower, you will be rewarded with a spectacular panoramic view.
Geneva's cobbled streets and alleyways are lined with magnificent luxury department stores as well as small cafés and restaurants. Like the Place du Bourg-de-Four, the oldest square in Geneva. From here, the route continues downhill along Rue de Rhône, one of the most expensive shopping streets in the world with luxurious jewellery and - of course - watches in the shop windows, to the lakeshore. Geneva is built around the water. No wonder that a large part of life takes place on and around the water. One of the most popular forms of public transport are the mouettes, the yellow ferries that shuttle between the north and south shores.
Bridge or unobstructed view?
Every year there are discussions and votes on a bridge crossing. However, many Genevans believe that such a structure would destroy the unobstructed view of the lake. This is dominated by the Jet d'Eau, a 140 metre high fountain. The famous water fountain shoots 500 litres of water per second into the air at 200 kilometres per hour. A breathtaking sight. What few people realise: The city's landmark was not originally intended to be a fountain. In 1886, the waterworks, which supplied Geneva's craftsmen and watchmakers with water power from the Rhône, was forced to create an open-air valve as the water was over-pressurised when the machines were at a standstill at night.
Just a few metres from the water's edge, the Bains des Pâquis attract sun worshippers and those seeking relaxation. Here you can swim, hire pedalos and SUPs or enjoy a sundowner in the beach bar. Another water sports highlight in the city is the Rhône. On average, it takes over ten years for the water to cross the lake and flow out at Geneva. When the floodgates are open due to heavy rainfall, the flow is sometimes very strong. The annual average outflow is around 270 cubic metres per second.
Geneva is made for all kinds of water sports
At the Pointe de la Jonction, the clear, blue-green waters of the Rhône meet the murky brown waters of the Arve. A spectacular natural spectacle that is best observed from the bridge over the confluence. In addition to the landing stage for kayakers and rafting tours, the headland is home to a kind of cultural centre with a bar and deckchairs. You can also observe a Swiss tradition here: river swimming.
As in Zurich, Bern, Basel and Thun, the people of Geneva allow themselves to be carried long distances by the current. Wearing swimming trunks, they stroll upstream along the riverbank to jump into the cool water from a bridge or via a ladder. Or they let themselves be carried
They can also float down the Rhône on rubber tyres, carrying their dry clothes in a waterproof bag for the journey home.
Whether pedal boating, rafting, kayaking or sailing - Geneva is perfect for all kinds of water sports. Accordingly, many boat hire providers vie for tourists. However, despite the wide range on offer, it is not cheap. In principle, you can also arrive with your own boat. However, this is relatively expensive and of course not free of charge.
Bureaucratic hurdles
Permits for temporary navigation on Swiss waters and a Swiss licence plate can usually be obtained from the shipping office of the respective canton. In Geneva, registration costs 95 Swiss francs, the equivalent of just over 100 euros, and is valid from the date of issue until the end of the following month. However, a number of documents must be presented for registration, such as an EC declaration of conformity and an insurance policy with appropriate cover.
There are also additional costs for a technical inspection and noise measurement as well as for the short-term licence plate and taxes, which depend on the engine power of the motorboat or the length of the sailing boat. However, there is a far less complicated option for touring Lake Geneva with your own boat: it is not necessary to register your boat to take part in the Bol d'Or. By registering with the Société Nautique de Genève, you receive the right to sail on the lake one week before the Geneva - Rolle - Geneva regatta and up to one week after the Bol d'Or. And if you're travelling to Geneva with your own boat, you shouldn't miss out anyway.
Precinct information
Weather
There is usually little wind on the "Lake of a Thousand Winds", but the weather can change quickly. The orange warning lights must be observed at all times. Bise and Föhn winds typically prevail. Bise is a cold, dry north-easterly wind that occurs due to the canalisation between the Jura and the Alps. The Föhn is a warm downslope wind that occurs on the leeward side of the Alps when moist air masses rise and cool down. The Vaudaire is a strong to gale-force wind that occasionally flows across the lake from the south through the Rhône valley and the Chablais, sometimes causing considerable damage.
Navigation
Dangers on Lake Geneva are marked by spars. They bear a black, conical top sign with the tip pointing upwards if they are positioned on the land side of the hazard. If they are positioned on the lake side, they bear a red, cylindrical, upward-pointing top sign.
Harbours
There are mooring buoys in the harbours. Visitor berths are free of charge for up to three consecutive nights per month and harbour and are usually marked by an orange buoy and a sign on the pier. It is not possible to make a reservation.
- Port des Eaux-Vives: Geneva's largest harbour near the city centre with over 1,000 berths, right next to the Jet d'Eau water fountain. There are seven guest berths. Perfect for a stroll through the city centre, but also very popular with bathers and partygoers at night.
- Port Noir: east of the city centre, on the south bank. The Port Noir is the headquarters of the Société Nautique de Genève. Protected by several piers, this large harbour basin has over 600 berths.
- Port-Choiseul à Versoix: Justine Mettraux's home village on the north shore. A little further out and quieter. Holiday feeling guaranteed. 474 berths and 16 visitor berths.
- Port du Creux-de-Genthod: Popular anchorage with unbeatable views of Mont Blanc and an upmarket restaurant, about eight kilometres outside the town on the north shore. Two guest buoys from the restaurant on the jetty. And orange mooring buoys in the bay.
Literature
"Carte marine du Lac Léman", Jean de Bosset/Bosco CH, EAN: 9995000016827, 36.90 euros
"Guide des ports du Lac Léman", Bosco Yachting, EAN: 9782839941990, 34.90 euros, e.g. on freytagberndt.com
