Voyage: Greece - picturesque sailing trip with detours in the Ionian Sea
Andreas Fritsch
· 23.07.2023
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The wind god Aeolus gives us one day: at the start in Corfu, the sun is shining and the wind is blowing lightly from the south. Not ideal when you're planning to sail almost 200 nautical miles at a course of around 160 degrees to round the Peloponnese from the Ionian Sea to Athens. But we don't have to make do with a run-of-the-mill charter boat. Our friend Andrea has given us her Comet 45 S for the one-way trip. She and her husband Ulli want to sail the boat from Athens back to Corfu in comfort.
The Comet turns out to be a blast. As the four of us put the boat into the breeze and set the main, a sinfully expensive, high-quality laminate sail, fully battened of course, glides towards the top of the pitch-black carbon fibre mast on ball-bearing slides. An equally expensive laminate sail then unfurls at the bow. For sailors who normally travel on normal charter yachts with furling sails, this is pretty damn sexy. After pumping the hydraulic backstay tensioner under a little pressure, co-sailor Uwe steers the Comet up into the light wind. The sails of the cruiser/racer are perfectly aligned in their profile and the boat heads south. While the charter yachts around us are already busy fuelling their diesel engines, we glide along at four to five knots. Dreamlike.
Course for the first finger of the Peloponnese
We start to do the maths: just pull through to Cape Maleas, the first finger of the Peloponnese, before heavy rain and then 50 knots of wind for two or three days? Unfortunately, that's the weather forecast. The temptation is great. Especially as the Peloponnese is Greece as it was 20 years ago: hardly any boats, a wild landscape, little tourism, quaint villages with towers instead of houses in the Mani region. And then dive into the deep blue Aegean Sea with its barren, ochre-coloured islands and fantastic destinations such as Monemvasia, Hydra and Poros. The only catch: the beautiful Ionian Sea with its mountainous, densely greened islands would then fall flat. The crew is having second thoughts.
But Aeolus puts an end to all the pondering. It's slowly closing in, and the wind falls asleep right in front of the dream bay of Lakka on the northern tip of Paxos. So we turn off, anchor and enjoy the perfectly sheltered bay in front of the village, the hills with their brittle cliffs and the olive tree plantations. The four of us, Uwe, the yacht surveyor, Jan, the architect, Heiko, the epoxy guru, and I, the journalist, stand in the cockpit and marvel at the view of the shimmering turquoise bay. Off to the dinghy, to the highly recommended restaurant "Stasinos". A good bottle of Santorini wine and a typical Greek meal: three or four starters and one or two main courses ordered, placed on the table and everyone helps themselves to everything. The frustration over the cancelled circumnavigation of the Peloponnese vanishes. "Siga, Siga" - slowly, slowly or take it easy, as the Greeks say. Arrived.
Wind picks up
The next morning we are greeted by drizzle. Unusual now in May. The weather had already been bad the week before. It turns out that a low pressure system is literally sticking over Italy's boot heel and repeatedly shovelling miserable weather and wind into the Ionian Sea for weeks on end. Later, YACHT meteorologist Dr Michael Sachweh explains that this is due to climate change and the resulting slower jet stream. Whereas the lows used to pass over Italy in two, maximum three days, they now sometimes remain in place for weeks, weaken, fill up and deepen again. This is how the severe flooding in Emilia-Romagna recently occurred. And ultimately the Ahr Valley flood in 2021.
But at least the southerly wind is back. So we decide in favour of the hard option: oilskins on, collars up and out of the bay. Then outside, west of Paxos, we head south, high in the wind. The wind picks up and we fly past Paxos, Antipaxos and Lefkas at a maximum speed of six or seven knots. After 55 miles in the rain, however, the decision is made: It would be irresponsible to try to cover another 160 nautical miles in this way, including the risk of being hit by 50-knot gusts directly from the front. Especially without safe harbours as a refuge on the Peloponnese.
So we stay in the area and turn off to Assos on the west side of Kefalonia. One of those harbours that can only fit a handful of boats. However, the harbour is perfect in southerly winds because it is completely sheltered from the wind.
We are the third ship to arrive at the tiny, stone-strewn pier. With a long shore line aft, the rudder is safe - and so are we. Lower and lower clouds are gathering, clinging to the steep mountain slopes of the island, enveloping them as if in cotton wool. "Nice sailing here in Scotland," comments co-sailor Uwe, the Greece rookie on board. "But the landscape with the mountains, spectacular!" A bit like sailing in the Alps, he thinks. And indeed, the cliffs rise steeply directly in front of and behind the yacht. The harbour is nestled like a volcanic crater.
Protection in the harbour of Vathi
The next morning, a look at the weather makes it clear: we have to find a safe harbour, the squalls are also sweeping across the central Ionian Sea. So off we go to Vathi on the island of Ithaca. There are a few moorings on the pier there, where the gusts blow onto the stern lines instead of sideways onto the anchor. In a storm, this can result in many anchors slipping, often at night according to Murphy's Law, and nobody needs that. Sounds like a plan. Thought of, done. The wind howls for a whole day. We use the time to tour the island in the hire car, sit in cafés and chat to the locals. They also say that the weather has become more unpredictable.
Then finally, around midday on the third day: sunshine! The houses in the picturesque village of Vathi light up in pastel colours against the green mountain wall, along which they gently line up around the bay. The wind is still blowing strongly from the south and the well-heeled Comet needs to be reefed. As we no longer have to go upwind to the Peloponnese, we turn off to Meganisi. Our "Windforce" doesn't take long and gallops through gusts and waves like an unleashed racehorse. The top speed on the log is 10.4 knots.
Jan, Uwe and Heiko's grins grow bigger. This is how they had imagined it. Pure sailing fun. And because it's so quick and easy, we round Meganisi and stop in the tiny, immaculately maintained Odyseas Marina in the island town of Vathi. 70 euros in mooring fees is a surprise, however, as the Ionian Sea is usually cheaper. In no other harbour do we pay more than 20 to 30 euros for our 45-foot yacht.
"What, Vathi again?" the crew wonders. Have the Greeks run out of names? The explanation is simple: in Greek, Vathi simply means "deep bay". In this huge island region, this is not just a one-off. Accordingly, there are ten places with this name throughout the country.
We stroll around the small harbour, where fishermen still mend their nets and the restaurant owners greet us in a friendly manner. But the two huge mega yachts? Somehow it looks like an aircraft carrier has run aground, at least according to Jan, the architect responsible for the aesthetics. The proportions are simply not right compared to the tiny village and the other boats.
Aeolus brings a surprise
Aeolus has another surprise in store for the next day: the wind should finally shift to the usual summer direction: North. So far, the spinnaker has been lying unused in the forecastle. Why not try to sail to Zakynthos' top attraction, the famous Wreck Bay, as a southern turning point? That's more than 50 miles, but our boat is travelling fast.
And so we sail around Meganisi and into the channel between Kefalonia and Ithaca. It's known as the north-south wind channel and lives up to its name. At first it's easy, then we head south with good speed. But heavy showers set in again, forcing us to stop in Sami. The town, still a little sleepy in May, is a popular starting point for an excursion to the Melessani caves. A good bakery is enough for us. We ask him why so many tavernas and shops are still closed at the beginning of May.
"Quite simply, we Greeks only open for the start of the season when the weather is right. Normally, 1 May is the starting date, but because of the storm and rain, many have spontaneously postponed it by a week!" It is this Mediterranean serenity that we are missing. Because they're right.
But then the next morning: great weather and a light northerly breeze. The spinnaker goes up, the boat glides nicely at five to seven knots out of seemingly nothing. A flotilla leaves the harbour of Poros ahead of us with the same destination as us. We quickly catch up with the last ships and plough through the field of "furling sailors" as if they were standing still.
Excursion to the shipwreck on Zakynthos
Around the northern tip of Zakynthos. Heiko spots a rather large turtle paddling on the surface. No wonder, Zakynthos is home to the most important turtle sanctuary in the Mediterranean. A quick look at the beautiful animal, you shouldn't get too close to them for too long, it causes the animals too much stress.
And then we turn into Navagio Bay. The crew marvels in awe. The freighter "Panagiotis", which ran aground in 1980, lies carefully draped in the sand behind the bright turquoise water. It rusts quietly in front of the vertical cliffs. A surreal but also captivating sight. It is still not entirely clear how it ended up there. Until now, it was always said to have been a cigarette smuggling ship that the crew left to its own devices because the coastguard had got wind of the cargo and was in pursuit. The captain and crew then absconded and the runaway ship ran aground.
Recently, however, the captain, who still lives on Kefalonia, published his version: according to him, they only ran aground at the time due to a technical defect and the crew saved themselves. When he returned to the scene of the accident with the police a few days later, the freighter had already been looted by beachcombers and the equipment had been dismantled.
Much of it was later confiscated from locals. The captain tried to prove all this with court documents, but they are not complete. Perhaps also because the court ordered him to ensure that the ship was salvaged - which would have deprived Zakynthos of its most important attraction today. In short, the story will probably never be fully clarified. It is strange, however, that the man is only now speaking out. No matter, the wreck is a great attraction.
Others know this too, the bay is a tourist magnet. We anchor, have a swim and Heiko and Uwe swim over to the beach to see the remains of the freighter. But then a local excursion boat arrives and the captain warns us: "You are no longer allowed to anchor here and go ashore. The beach is closed this year because of a landslide in which tourists were injured! You're only allowed into the bay to have a quick look."
This is actually confirmed later. The authorities want to investigate measures to secure the steep slopes. Given the 200 metre vertical cliffs, this is likely to be quite complicated.
The jewel in the crown
The view is enough for us; the bay is not safe for an overnight stay anyway, as it is far too deep and rocky. So we head to the north-east side of Zakynthos to the bay of Agios Nikolaos. Behind an offshore island is a small harbour from where the excursion boats leave for Wreck Bay. Yachts can moor at a pier, but a man in a rib offers us one of four buoys in front of a small taverna. He quickly threads our lines through. When we go for a swim, it turns out that the official concrete blocks at the bottom promise a secure hold. Of course, we end up in the taverna later in return. We enjoy the evening sun with a view of the boat and the bay.
As fast as our boat is, we gradually have to make our way back to Corfu. And so we head northwards to another highlight of the area: Fiskardo on Kefalonia. Perhaps the most beautiful village on the whole island. At least one of the few that was not destroyed in the great earthquake of 1953. Back then, the island was devastated, almost 1,000 people died, many villages were not rebuilt and the inhabitants turned their backs on the island.
But Fiskardo remained and has been a jewel of the area ever since. I've been here umpteen times, each time with other sailors, and everyone has always been delighted. This time too. Jan, Heiko and Uwe all agree: an island dream, especially in the evening, when the pastel-coloured houses still glow in the sunlight, the crews sit in the cafés and restaurants behind their yachts and gossip, the tourists stroll along the harbour in evening dress.
Diversity in the Ionian Sea
That is the strength of the Ionian Sea: it is always just a stone's throw from the next top destination, the wind is usually gentle and predictable, nature is lush because there is a lot of rain in winter. Lemon and lime trees, bougainvillea, cylinder plaster bushes, trumpet trees and figs sprout everywhere. The variety is exuberant. An area for connoisseurs. Mileage is unnecessary and somehow inappropriate. If you want action, you have to go to the Aegean.
And so we let the Ionian Sea heal the small scar of failure in our hearts and spend the next few days island hopping at its finest. Anchoring against the mountain backdrop of Kalamos. Swimming off tiny islets on Ithaca's east coast with its many great anchorages such as Pera Pegadi and Kioni. Head for the fjord-like harbour of Gaios on Paxos. It never gets boring, even though I've been here so often.
When we arrive in Gouvia, however, we feel a pang in our hearts, as we didn't actually want to see the harbour again. Later, we meet the owner Andrea and her husband Ulli at the jetty. "Don't worry guys, we'll get round the Peloponnese next time!" Here's to an ouzo! Or no, we'd rather agree on an Assyrtiko from Santorini, including dinner in the beautiful old town of Corfu. And that is a more than worthy backdrop for the grand finale of a cruise.
The most beautiful harbours and bays in the region
Precinct information
Journey
Direct flight to Corfu or Lefkas (Preveza). If you want to start directly in the area, take Lefkas, which is also ideal for a week. If you have more time or don't mind longer flights, take off from Corfu. The flight agency Flights and More KT-Reisedienst of Christian Lambert in Nuremberg, a proven specialist for the needs and sometimes complicated wishes of charter crews worldwide for many years, provides excellent advice: TELEPHONE 0911/486 45 85, WWW.FLIGHTS-AND-MORE.COM
Charter
We were travelling with a Comet 45 S in the charter fleet of Odysseus Yachting. The cruiser/racer is only for experienced sailors. Costs: 2,900 to 6,400 euros depending on the season. Alternatively, there are many fleets from Corfu, Lefkas or Palairos. Information and bookings: WWW.BARBERA-YACHTING.COM
Wind & Weather
In summer, north-westerly to westerly winds that build up during the day and reach 3 to 4 Bft. It dies down again around 6 pm. In spring and autumn, south-west to south-east winds prevail, with longer lulls in between. From mid-September and in spring until the beginning of May, lows bring partial storms.
Harbours & anchorages
Some full-service marinas (Corfu, Lefkas, Preveza, Meganisi), otherwise simpler town harbours. Mooring with bow anchor and stern lines. Water and electricity on site, rarely sanitary facilities. Very low harbour dues, around 20 to 30 euros for a 45-foot boat.
Literature & Charts
A. Fritsch: "Charterführer Ionisches Meer von Korfu bis Zakynthos", Edition Maritim, 26.90 euros. This handy book lists the top destinations and provides route recommendations. Alternatively: The heavyweight 643-page work "Greek Coasts" by R. and L. Heikell for 69.90 euros, delius-klasing.de. Maps: from Imray "Greece G11 and 12" and from Eagle Ray "Greece Sea Guide III".
Excursion destination: Sissi's summer residence
If you fancy a bit of culture, you can visit the summer palace of the Austrian Empress Elisabeth "Sissi" on Corfu. The building high above with its fantastic view over the sea and the island, the magnificent colonnade and the statues is a tourist highlight. Sailors stop on Corfu's east coast in front of the village of Benitses with its small marina. Look for a place there or anchor. It is then about two kilometres on foot to the palace, the "Achilleion". Alternatively, take a taxi. The empress was an ardent fan of Corfu and named the house after the legendary warrior Achilles. The magnificent palace with private utensils and furnishings, including a large garden, is well worth a visit. It has been closed for renovation work since October 2022, so check whether it has reopened before travelling: WWW.ACHILLION-CORFU.GR
Excursion destination: Cave with lake
If you fancy a shore excursion, you can take a taxi or hire a moped from Sami or Effimia to visit the Melessani Caves: an underground lake in a grotto whose roof has collapsed. Go there around midday, when the sun shines in at the top and the lake is a deep blue colour! You are rowed through the cave in a boat. Such tours by moped or hire car are also a great way to explore the islands, and from the mountains you have a great view of the area!
