The approach to the small island is spectacular. Due to the mini runway, which is bordered at both ends by the Aegean Sea, the pilot lands as low as if he wanted to shave the clickers of the incoming and outgoing sailing yachts. This is followed by a deafening emergency braking manoeuvre that suddenly sends adrenaline levels soaring. But all is well. The next moment, the stewardess gives us a reassuring "Welcome to Skiathos!". It is then only a few minutes by taxi to the harbour of the island of the same name, which is the tourist centre of the Sporades. The charter base is located here in the form of an old floating dock, where a few fishing boats are moored.
In the high season, the nightlife pulsates all around, which is due to the many bars, restaurants and clubs around the harbour and keeps the noise level high until the morning. Many crews are therefore quick to leave. In the off-season, on the other hand, it is quiet, so a stroll through the southern part of the old town with its winding alleyways is definitely appealing.
The film "Mamma Mia!" was shot here
Mamma Mia!", the cult musical with hits by the Swedish band Abba, is omnipresent, whether in the permanent programme of the open-air cinema or as the namesake for the local bakery. The reason: the stage play was filmed on Skiathos and on the neighbouring island of Skopelos, with a star cast in beautiful bays. We want to see the latter too. Anchor up!
With the help of the jet effect, our Bavaria C42 rushes across the Steno Skopelou, the deep strait between Skiathos and Skopelos, at eight knots. You don't need the jet in summer, when the Meltemi is strong. In autumn, however, the north wind decreases significantly and rarely exceeds 4 Beaufort. Flat days are more likely.
At midday, we drop anchor in the densely wooded bay south of the fishing harbour of Agnontas on Skopelos. Although there is a rustic jetty for mooring, the wind from the north-west causes an unpleasant swell. Instead, the dinghy is lowered into the water to land on the beach in front of the tavernas. With a view of the bay and the boat, the first landfall can be enjoyed in a relaxed atmosphere with a cold drink.
The basin of musical madness
In the evening, we first round the lovely south of the island before crossing the western passage of the Steno Alonnisou. There, rugged cliffs rise almost vertically out of the sea - impressive! In the well-protected harbour of Skopelos Town, we are then surrounded by a lively flotilla of Romanian charter crews, all wearing pink T-shirts.
They tell us that chip cards for shore power are available at the nearby "Puesto" mini-market. Right next to it, under a large plane tree, is the bar-lounge "Lethe Bohemian", which seems to magically attract sailors with its mix of cheerful birdsong and relaxed music. No wonder, the drinks are formidable and the harbour ambience is fantastic. But be careful when sinking in, the prices are steep!
Back on board, another sound experience awaits us: traditional live music, reggae, pop and bossa nova create a Babylonian chant that is carried across the water from the various bars. "This is the basin of musical madness," comments fellow sailor Hajø dryly, pouring another round of ouzo.
The warm hospitality of the Greeks is hard to beat - even at the end of a long season."
Skopelos, the pearl of the Sporades
Even in broad daylight, the town lives up to its reputation as the pearl of the Sporades. The further you work your way up the steeply ascending alleyways, the quieter it becomes. As many roads are impassable for cars, some services such as rubbish collection are still carried out by donkey. The whitewashed houses are adorned with orange trees, vines and oleanders and flanked by purring cats. From the church of Panagitsa of Pyrgos, which has been perched on a rock since 1660, there is a beautiful panorama over the harbour and the stony town beach.
For a trip to the far more beautiful beaches or to the place of pilgrimage for all "Mamma Mia!" fans, the Agios Ioannis chapel in the north of the island, it is worth hiring a moped or car. However, we stay in town and visit the Bountalas family's unique model ship exhibition (see left).
The next morning, the wind is blowing from the north-east, which is not unusual, but would mean a head wind given our planned route. As the weather forecast also predicts that this will be the last day with sailable wind, we decide to make a diversion to the island of Skantzoura to the east. Like some of the other islands, it is in a national park. Anchoring overnight is prohibited. However, Skantzoura is ideally located as a stopover for the next leg northwards.
"Between the green, densely wooded islands, the sea smells pleasantly of pines, cypresses and pine trees"
Clear, blue water in picturesque anchor bays
After a relaxed 18 nautical miles on starboard bow, we reach the island and discover a narrow bay in the far south. As we only wanted to jump into the water briefly, we simply dropped anchor and left the otherwise obligatory shore line in the forecastle. The true beauty of this bay is only revealed from a drone's perspective: the turquoise blue, crystal-clear water penetrates the green, densely overgrown rocky landscape like a spike.
After the second day's stage of just under 20 nautical miles and the last of the wind, our "Silver VII" finally enters the south-west bay of the so-called goat island of Kyra Panagia. "This is getting better and better," the crew enthused unanimously after an extensive day of sailing. The spacious bay has several good anchorages, but they are prone to swell in winds from the western quadrants. We decide in favour of a spot in the north, which is also protected by an islet off the coast. Here, too, the clearest water in the most beautiful shades of blue - and what's more: we have the place all to ourselves!
Only fellow sailor Olli looks a little sad, knowing that the remaining days can only be motorised. "At least we'll save the sails then," he says, before jumping into the water with a loud cry. While snorkelling, there are fish of all kinds to discover. But be careful: in addition to spiny sea urchins, you may also come across bearded fireworms, whose bristles are poisonous and can cause pain for several days.
Pelagonisi may only be entered to visit the monastery
Pelagonisi, as the original island is also known, is no longer open to tourists. One exception is a visit to the high-altitude monastery, which is reached by a steep staircase leading up from the small Monastiri Bay. Even if the monk does not open his doors, the ascent past olive trees and maquis is rewarded with a marvellous view.
The best protection from wind and waves is provided by the almost completely enclosed bay of Planitis in the north, which is approached via a tube-shaped entrance. Snorkellers don't get their money's worth here; the good anchorage seems to have taken its toll and unfortunately makes a dead impression. At least we can watch the clear starry sky undisturbed and enjoy the peace and quiet. The only people who have something to complain about are the wild goats.
Thousands of shipwrecks as a diving attraction
Back in civilisation, we head for the small fishing port of Steni Vala on Alonnisos. As moorings are rare and the restaurants enjoy a good reputation, it is worth arriving early. When mooring with the stern at the pier, we need to be careful as there are stones and the ground rises quickly. We get help from the mini-market owner Kostas Mavrikis, who is also a diver and a recognised wreck expert in the Sporades.
Thousands of ships from all eras are said to lie at the bottom of the archipelago. The most famous of these is the wreck of Pethamenos, which rests in a bed of countless amphorae and which Mavrikis has been diving to since his youth. His specialised books, which have also been published in English, are available to buy in his shop.
The family-run taverna "Cassia's Cooking" is also memorable thanks to the warm service and excellent food. For the grilled octopus, braised lamb with plums and a marvellous starter ensemble, each person ends up paying 24 euros, drinks included - that's eating like God in Greece!
Hidden, small harbours for insiders
Further south in the harbour of Patitiri there is a lot of swell despite the continuing calm. The boats moored at the pier dance up and down. When mooring in the last gap, we make sure that the masts are offset from each other. On the port side is Arne Korf from Berlin, who has been organising berth charter trips in Greece for many years. His tip regarding the often crowded harbours: "There are some hidden, secluded bays and small harbours that you can only find if you search for a long time and study the nautical chart carefully." In the morning, there is a fantastic view over the harbour from the eastern hill. The loud rattling of an anchor chain reveals the first early risers before they pass through the narrow harbour entrance to set course for the still low sun and the largely uninhabited island of Peristera.
Towards the end of the trip, our Bavaria joins the pearl necklace of returning charter yachts. Shortly before the charter jetty in Skiathos, a member of the base staff boards a small motorboat to carry out the mooring manoeuvre. The crews don't have to worry about refuelling in advance either. A tanker is available in the harbour. Payment is made in cash or by card.
In the evening, there will be another gastronomic highlight to round off the day. The choice falls on the "Akrogiali" tavern located directly on the waterfront. A very good decision, as it soon turns out. With a view of the low-flying aeroplanes, a black swan and a Greek wedding party, the verdict is unanimous: "Mamma Mia, what a great spot!"
Tips for the area and shore leave
Kyra Panagia: Ormos Monastiri
The only official landing point on the protected island. From the small bay in the east, 194 steps lead up to the monastery, which is closed from 3 pm to 6 pm. However, it is never quite certain whether the monk will open his doors at other times.
Peristera: Shipwreck
To the north-east of Steni Vala, on the west side of the island, lies the rusty remnant, which can even be moored. Not only exciting for wreck lovers, but also for snorkellers and photographers looking for a motif.
Alonnisos: Patitiri
The beautiful and very green harbour town is home to the documentation centre for the marine national park. Here, visitors can find out about measures to protect the now rare Mediterranean monk seal, for example.
Skantzoura: Anchorage and bathing bay
In the south of the somewhat remote Sporades island, it is worth dropping anchor in the thorn-shaped bay. However, as overnight stays are not permitted here, the bay should be approached as early in the day as possible. A paradise for snorkellers.
Alonnisos: Steni Vala
The small fishing harbour with its great charm scores with very good and inexpensive restaurants in the immediate vicinity of the boat.
There is also a mini-market, a café serving delicious breakfasts and a shipwreck expert on site.
Skopelos: Model boat exhibition
A visit to the warm-hearted Bountalas family and their works of art is a very special highlight on Skopelos. The boats are all made using the original boat building materials and traditional boat building techniques. They could even sail.
The Bountalas have been building ships for over two centuries. First big, now small
YACHT: How did you come up with the idea of building model ships?
Regina Bountalas:Our family consisted of boat builders for seven generations. When the shipyards on Skopelos fell victim to tourism in the 1970s, my grandfather started making small replicas out of walnut wood. He passed on his expertise to my parents Yannis and Nina. I am now also building my first boats.
What is the secret of your unique boats?
All the details are made from the same materials that were used to build the large seagoing vessels and are crafted by hand. The boats could even sail if the rigs were easier to operate.
Which model did you spend the longest time building?
I worked on the "HMS Victory" every single day for a year. It is so heavy and solid that it is virtually indestructible.(As proof, he bumps into the torso with full force, laughing).
The models must be priceless. Are they even for sale?
Regina Bountalas:In theory, yes, but it is actually almost impossible to find a buyer for it. That's why we are now also building smaller and simpler boats that we can sell better.
Yannis Bountalas:However, my father and I were able to sell a model of the "USS Constitution" to a Greek shipowner. He then bequeathed it to former US President George Bush senior.
Things to know for the Sporades cruise
Navigation & Seamanship
Greece is a country of ferries. Particular attention should be paid to the hydrofoils, as they are also very fast when entering and leaving the harbours and cause a lot of swell. Otherwise, the area is easy to navigate, just watch out for shallows close to land.
Harbours & anchorages
Mostly town harbours or small jetties where you can moor with a bow anchor. Hardly any infrastructure, but often no mooring fees. Water and diesel by tanker on request. Many good anchor bays throughout the area.
Wind & Weather
In the Sporades, the prevailing wind is the Meltemi, which blows from the northern quadrants. In contrast to the more southerly Aegean regions such as the Cyclades, however, it is much more moderate. Between the islands, freshening winds must be expected due to the jet effect. In the early and late season, the Scirocco occasionally sets in from the south.
Marine National Park
The largest protected area in the Mediterranean comprises a total of six islands and 22 other rocky islets. While Gioura and Piperi are closed to visitors due to the monk seal populations there, the other islands can be visited under various conditions. For Kyra Panagia, a ticket must be purchased online in advance, which must be presented at a park ranger checkpoint. Plan well in advance, as there is no mobile phone reception in the north.
Literature & charts
Cruising guide "Greek coasts" by Rod & Lucinda Heikell, 69.90 euros, Edition Maritim (new edition 2019). General nautical chart Imray G25, "Northern Sporades and North Evvoia" (scale 1:190,000), 31.90 euros, available from specialist dealers.
Charter
We were travelling on a well-equipped Bavaria C42 from Kiriacoulis. The boat costs from 1,964 euros to 5,511 euros per week depending on the season (plus final cleaning, bed linen and towels). Information and booking: +30 210 988 61 87.
