Floorboard lifehack 1: Helpers from the bathroom also for floorboards on board
On many yachts of more recent construction, retractable handles in the floorboards are no longer common. If you do need to look into the bilge, the floorboard has to be lifted with a special suction cup, which then acts as a handle at any point. However, if this utensil is lost, a replacement is needed. Just like us. Levering it up with a screwdriver is out of the question, as the edges would be extremely damaged and the attempt would not necessarily be successful. Without further ado, we made do with a sanitary item: A plunger, which can be found very cheaply in drugstores or DIY stores, does the job with flying colours. Special suction lifters are also an option, but the plunger also fulfils a dual purpose in case of doubt and was also the cheapest.
Manfred Schmidt, Stampe
Floorboard lifehack 2: Suck off the last drop with a ball shower
To siphon off small amounts of rain or condensation water from the bilge, we use a modified ball sprayer. This oversized pipette is actually intended for watering plants. We sawed off the front of the pipe - now it's great for pumping out small amounts of liquid without electricity and even in hard-to-reach places. A ball sprayer with a volume of 250 millilitres is available from DIY stores or online for around 10 euros. That's money well spent.
Carsten Dubois, Elchingen
Floorboard lifehack 3: With joint sealing tape against dirt and squeaking
In our case, the floorboards are not flush with the built-in furniture, resulting in larger gaps. Dust, sand and crumbs collect in these gaps and also migrate into the bilge, where insects and vermin find a place to hide and breed much more easily. A simple solution is to seal these gaps with a joint sealing tape (also known as Compriband or swelling tape) from the building construction sector. These tapes are available in various widths and thicknesses.
Kai Uhrig, by e-mail
Floorboard lifehack 4: Adjustable baffle plates
We have equipped our drinks chest with a variable subdivision. Depending on the desired number of compartments, several plywood boards are sawn to fit the contour of the storage space. The boards are then drilled through at the corners and threaded onto three long threaded rods. Nuts and washers in front of and behind each bulkhead provide the necessary hold. To install the partitioning, all the bulkheads are pushed to one end. This makes the construction flexible and allows it to be manoeuvred through the lid of the storage compartment. It is then adjusted to the desired spacing.
Fred Sommer, Hamburg
Do you have any advice for other sailors?
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