Ideally, all work on the sails should be carried out in the autumn – particularly rinsing them with fresh water to remove the salt, as otherwise it attracts water, which can lead to mildew or frost damage. The owner should keep an eye on the finer details: check the thimbles to see if they are starting to fray. Check particularly around the batten pockets to see if the seams are still in good condition; this applies to all seams in general. For this check, coloured thread is often used nowadays, which makes the inspection easier.
If this inspection is not carried out until spring, when sailmakers are always at their busiest, there is a risk that the start of the season will be delayed due to waiting times.
Removing water stains
If the sails have mildew stains, these must be removed, for example using Tento-Clean; this is available from any sailmaker or from shops selling tent equipment and accessories. However, it is essential to follow the instructions for use, otherwise the sail may be damaged. This product can also be used to treat mould stains on sprayhoods or in interior areas such as the wet room. For beige-coloured fabrics only, he recommends Schimmalgin Spezial from the same manufacturer. Whilst this is essentially the same as Tento-Clean, the instructions for use state that a fabric protector must be applied first, otherwise staining may occur. However, both products should only be used on fabrics with UV-resistant dyes; upholstery or clothing, for example, may become faded. Sprayhoods or tarpaulins should also be waterproofed regularly. There are various products available for this purpose, such as Prägnolin Ultra.
Ignore grease stains
Removing other stains, such as grease marks, would be purely cosmetic; it does not make the sail last any longer or shorter, nor does it make it sail any faster or slower. It is therefore better to leave them on the sail. After all, the fabric always suffers as a result of cleaning, regardless of the method used. Anyone who is determined to clean their sails should under no circumstances use any chemicals, as these can damage the material. This applies even more to spinnakers or gennakers, where the material is even more delicate, as well as to laminated sails.
The expert also advises against using so-called professional laundries.
So, if you’re going to clean it, get a cheap sheet of plastic from the DIY store. Lay the plastic on a patch of lawn and use it as a base – never spread the sail directly on the lawn to keep organic matter off it. Then get down on your knees and scrub using a very soft brush, lukewarm water and green soap. With laminated sails, bear in mind that, due to the tiny gaps between the laminate layers, they are prone to a capillary effect, meaning they absorb water. Water in the sail can become a problem if you take to the water at a time of year when night-time frosts are still possible. In such cases, the ice inside the sail can cause the material to burst and be destroyed. Therefore, in such conditions – particularly after a potentially rainy trip – it is best to take the sails down again, including those made of woven fabric, and take them home with you. Because of this risk, cleaning with water should also be carried out when there is no risk of frost.
Do not treat wrinkles
It’s better to leave creases in the sail as they are, rather than ironing them out, for example. This is hardly ever an issue with modern sails anyway. Creases caused by storage will smooth out on their own after 20 minutes of sailing. The situation is different with heavily resin-impregnated sails. Creases are a nuisance in these cases; however, there is no practical way to remove them.
When hoisting the sails, it is essential to ensure that the mast sliders are threaded in the correct direction – that is, with the top facing upwards. Otherwise, they break very easily or snap off as soon as the halyard is pulled taut. If you have sliders with rollers, you should clean them: remove salt and sand crystals using a toothbrush and warm water, and spray them with lubricant before threading them through. The small springs on the stay sliders could also do with a bit of spray.
Reapply UV protection
Many covers wear out prematurely due to a lack of UV protection. Even tube covers are often not pulled over the sail properly enough; this should be done every evening. However, the tube cover has effectively had its day, with only around 30 per cent of yachts still fitted with one.
The only argument in its favour is that it can be used multiple times, i.e. on different sails. On the other hand, there is now very good UV protection available that is applied directly to the fabric and does not affect the sail’s performance. This means the sail is protected immediately as soon as it is rolled up. This type of sealant can also be applied to existing sails and costs around 33 euros per metre of the head and foot of the sail. However, if you have this protection, you no longer need a cover over it. A cover always moves slightly in the wind and would rub the UV sealant off the sail.
Finding out the cause of chafing
If there are scuff marks on the sail, for example around the spreader cams, it is essential to investigate the cause. This is because modern sails no longer require protective patches; they usually already have a protective coating applied. So if there are any scuff marks, they are caused by the fittings, such as the spreader cams, not by the sail itself. Anyone wishing to apply patches to such areas should purchase self-adhesive sailcloth from a specialist retailer. When making the patches, ensure that they are not too large and that the corners are cut to a rounded shape. When applying them, take care to avoid trapping any air bubbles.
Rig checklist
- Rinse the salt out of the sails
- Check seams and fittings
- Removing water stains
- Cleaning roller slides
- Check UV protection
- Check for scuff marks
- Check the sprayhood and other items
Available to download free of charge: Season Start Checklist (PDF)