Far Haaf – in Shetland, this term refers to the edge of the world. ‘The Far Sea’ is the name given to the boundary of the fishing grounds, which extend from the coast some fifty nautical miles westwards into the North Atlantic. There, at the outer edge of the continental shelf, the seabed drops off steeply. The land comes to an end. For generations of Shetlanders, the risk of fishing for cod, ling and herring in these exposed expanses was simply part of life.
Their rowing boats were open sixers, slender double-ended vessels built in the Nordic style. The six men on board therefore had to be battle-hardened and seasoned seafarers, but in a sense these qualities were second nature to them: as early as around the year 800, Norwegian Vikings had taken control of the rocky archipelago from the local Picts and named it Hjaltland.
From the Viking Age to the present day
Even though Shetland has been part of Scotland for five centuries now, the legacy of the Scandinavian settlers is still very much alive and well, ranging from highly official symbols such as the regional flag – a Scandinavian cross in the Scottish colours – and the island’s motto, borrowed from the sagas, Með lögum skal land byggja (‘The land shall be built by law’), to more ‘worldly’ aspects such as the Up Helly Aa festival in Lerwick.
According to ancient custom, the Up Helly Aa festival on the last Tuesday in January is held to drive out the winter spirits. To this end, real flames, torches and burning barrels of tar blaze everywhere. Thousands of Vikings fill the streets, the Honorary Jarl ensures ‘order’ with his armoured bodyguard, and the highlight is the burning of a replica longship in the darkness. After that, the celebrations really get going, with singing and even more fire – in the throat. The following Wednesday is, also traditionally, a public holiday.
Destination on the sailing trip around Scotland
However, the connection to the land of their ancestors has also been maintained by sea. This is hardly surprising; it is only about 200 nautical miles to Bergen. The Scottish capital, Edinburgh, on the other hand, is more than 300 nautical miles away. Not to mention London, which is said to lie somewhere very far to the south …
The sea route between Shetland and Norway took on particular significance during the Second World War, as a means of smuggling daring agents back in secret to their homeland, which was then under German occupation. More on that later. Today, fortunately, it is wanderlust – often with a dash of a thirst for adventure – that draws visitors to set sail on their own.
And this refers not only to the passengers on the cruise ships, who have now become a familiar sight during the summer months, but also to sailing crews. Many come over from Norway on the spectacular sailing trip around Scotland, which also takes in the Orkneys, the Western Isles and the The Caledonian Canal across the Highlands belong to.
Shetland: A sailing destination in a class of its own
Yet the archipelago is a world of its own, with rugged and gentle sides, a vibrant capital, spectacular natural scenery and endless opportunities for shore excursions. Even the weather is ‘varied’. But sunshine alone is boring anyway, isn’t it?
Shetland consists of around one hundred islands, twenty of which are inhabited. The largest in the archipelago is Mainland. It covers an area of approximately 1,000 square kilometres, which is roughly the same size as Rügen. The large Northmavine peninsula in the north-west is connected to the rest of Mainland only by a narrow isthmus.
Alongside the main town of Lerwick on the North Sea coast and the airport near Sumburgh on the southern tip, Scalloway is also the island’s most important port on the Atlantic side. With a population of around 1,100, Scalloway ranks second among Shetland’s towns. The harbour, with its cargo terminal, fishing pier and marina, is overlooked by the walls of Scalloway Castle.
Shetland Bus – History in Scalloway
In the shadow of the ruins stands the museum, which, amongst other things, recounts the most fascinating story from the recent past: From 1941 until the end of the war, Scalloway was the starting point for the Shetland Bus: using inconspicuous cutters and fast motor cruisers, the Norwegian Navy maintained a secret, highly dangerous shuttle service to the fjord coast of their occupied country.
From Shetland, they brought back weapons and equipment for the resistance, agents and commando units; on the return journey, the boats were filled with refugees and Allied soldiers in hiding. A story full of courage and hardship. The most famous skipper was the Norwegian Leif Larsen, known as ‘Shetland Larsen’, who undertook 52 voyages himself. Many crews, however, were lost, falling victim to the Germans or the merciless sea itself. The story is shown in the Scalloway Museum.
Lerwick is the centre of Shetland
The first port of call for recreational sailors, however, will be Lerwick, with its population of 7,000; with its shops, pubs and restaurants (including even a French one), it is undoubtedly Shetland’s ‘metropolis’. People have made a lot of money here over the years – from bowhead whales, salted herring and smuggled gin. Today, it’s tourists – amongst other things.
Thanks to its central location, Lerwick is the perfect base for exploring the area, most conveniently by hire car. Avis and Europcar offices are located near the harbour. Other highlights include the modern Shetland Museum and a trip out to sea to the breeding colonies of migratory birds on the steep eastern flank of the Isle of Noss, which lies off the coast of the island of Bressay, either in your own boat or on an excursion boat.
The Wild North: the Northern Isles
The two islands of Yell and Unst form the northern part of the archipelago, the Northern Isles. They are connected to one another and to the Mainland by ferries. Strong tidal currents flow through the narrow sounds between the islands. The further north you go, the rougher the landscape becomes and the sparser the population. Nevertheless, this is where most of the Viking Age archaeological sites are found; on Unst alone, the remains of more than sixty longhouses have been unearthed to date.
Shetland’s most spectacular circular walk takes you across the Hermaness Peninsula in the far north. From the grassy plateau above the cliffs, there are fantastic views of colonies of seabirds and the island of Muckle Flugga – its lighthouse, built in 1855 by the Stevenson brothers in an almost impossible location, was the northernmost inhabited place in the British Isles until it was automated in 1995. What a job at the edge of the world!
Area information: Shetland
The Precinct
The location alone makes Shetland a very challenging sailing area. Route planning, navigation, tide calculations and weather monitoring require considerable seafaring experience, and the crew, yacht and equipment must be suitable for voyages in this particular sea area. Although the summer months average only three days of fog and one day of stormy weather, difficult weather conditions are possible at any time. Yachts from abroad must report on VHF channel 12 when approaching Lerwick and, after mooring, to the Port Authority at the Albert Building to Going through customs with the UK Border Force.
The ports
Given Shetland’s remoteness, the archipelago offers a surprisingly large number of mooring options for visiting yachts. A total of 22 locations are available across the area, including in remote spots (see map). Crucially, most of these harbours offer good shelter and the majority are equipped with at least one tide-independent floating jetty. However, comprehensive services are only available in Lerwick and Scalloway. A complete overview with contact details can be found on the internet.
The literature
Navigation handbook ‘Orkney and Shetland Islands. Including North and North-East Scotland’. Imray, 150 pp.; A4 format, softcover, ISBN 978-1-78679-161. €48.50. • Various official nautical charts (Admiralty). All items can be obtained, for example, via nvcharts.com
Christian Tiedt
Editor Travel